Keep the root zone consistently moist
Healthy roots need steady access to moisture. Let the soil dry slightly between waterings, but adjust before the lawn stays drought-stressed.
WATERING GUIDE
Water your lawn with purpose.
Water keeps grass actively growing, supports healthy roots, and helps the lawn recover from heat, mowing, and treatment stress. The goal is consistent moisture in the root zone without keeping the soil constantly wet.
THE SHORT ANSWER
Measure what your sprinklers deliver, water the root zone deeply, and adjust the interval for rainfall and North Texas heat—especially during July and August.
BEST PRACTICES
What your lawn needs
Water deeply, not every day
Longer, less-frequent watering encourages deeper roots. A light daily sprinkle usually wets only the surface.
Water early in the morning
Morning watering limits evaporation and gives the lawn time to dry during the day.
Adjust each sprinkler zone
Sun, shade, soil, slope, and sprinkler coverage affect every zone differently. Correct dry spots or runoff instead of adding the same time everywhere.
Why deep watering works
Water, let it soak in, then water again
Deep watering helps moisture move farther into the 4–6 inch root zone and encourages stronger roots. Apply the planned weekly amount on one or two watering days instead of watering a little every day. On each watering day, divide the total runtime into back-to-back full-system passes. While the other zones run, each zone gets time to absorb the water before the controller returns to it.
The total watering time stays the same. Breaking it into passes reduces runoff and gives the water a better chance to soak deeper into the soil.
Have a large yard with many sprinkler zones?
A full soak-and-repeat schedule may take more than 24 hours on a large system. If yours does, divide your yard into two groups—such as the front yard and back yard—and follow this guide for each group.
For example, water the front yard on Monday or Tuesday, then the back yard on Wednesday or Thursday, choosing days allowed by your local watering schedule. For each group, keep the same approach: water, let it soak in, then water again.
Aim to finish the whole yard in as few watering days as practical. Keep the main goal in mind: get water deeper into the soil and make sure your grass receives adequate moisture, especially as we transition into the hot, dry part of summer.
YOUR COMPLETE SEASONAL GUIDE
Professional North Texas watering plan
THE TARGET
Apply about 1 inch when the lawn needs it—not a fixed number of minutes.
Count rainfall toward the total and apply enough water to moisten the soil 4–6 inches deep. During July and August, aim for 1.5 inches total per week. Increase to 2 inches during a severe drought when the soil is drying too quickly or the turf shows early stress.
ESTIMATED RUNTIMES
Find your sprinkler type
These times are a starting point. Use rain-gauge cups and the test in this guide to confirm the correct runtime for each zone.
Shop rain gauge cups on Amazon ↗Most common
About 0.4–0.6 in./hrStandard rotor—Rain Bird or Hunter
Pops up and sends one main stream of water that slowly rotates back and forth. Common on medium and large lawns.
Common models: Rain Bird 5004 / 5004 Plus · Hunter PGP-ADJ / PGP-04 (PGP Ultra)
- 0.5 inch
- 50 min
- 1 inch
- 1 hr 40 min (100 min)
- 1.5 inches
- 2 hr 30 min (150 min)
- 2 inches
- 3 hr 20 min (200 min)
Fixed spray pop-up
About 1.6 in./hrPops up but stays stationary, spraying a continuous fan of water.
- 0.5 inch
- 19 min
- 1 inch
- 38 min
- 1.5 inches
- 56 min
- 2 inches
- 1 hr 15 min (75 min)
Rain Bird R-VAN rotary nozzle
About 0.6 in./hrPops up and sends several thin rotating streams across the lawn. It applies water faster than a standard Hunter MP Rotator.
- 0.5 inch
- 50 min
- 1 inch
- 1 hr 40 min (100 min)
- 1.5 inches
- 2 hr 30 min (150 min)
- 2 inches
- 3 hr 20 min (200 min)
Hunter MP Rotator
About 0.4 in./hrPops up and sends several thin streams of water that slowly rotate across the lawn. It applies water more slowly than the Rain Bird R-VAN.
- 0.5 inch
- 1 hr 15 min (75 min)
- 1 inch
- 2 hr 30 min (150 min)
- 1.5 inches
- 3 hr 45 min (225 min)
- 2 inches
- 5 hr (300 min)
Estimates are based on manufacturer specifications for Rain Bird 5000 Series, Hunter PGP Ultra, Rain Bird R-VAN, and Hunter MP Rotator products.
SeasonStarting intervalHow to adjust
December–FebruaryEvery 15–20 days, if needed
Leave the automatic system off. Water manually only during an extended dry spell when the soil is dry.
March–AprilEvery 10–15 days
Let rainfall do most of the work. Begin regular watering only after the lawn is actively growing and the root zone is drying.
May–June1–2 watering days per week
Measure sprinkler coverage and begin near 1 inch total. Move toward the shorter interval as heat, wind, and dry soil increase.
July–August2–3 watering days per week
Aim for 1.5 inches total per week from rain and irrigation, increasing to 2 inches during a severe drought. When using two watering days, separate them by two or three days and use consecutive full-system passes each day.
September–NovemberEvery 10–15 days
Return toward 1 inch per interval, lengthen the gap as temperatures fall, and shut the automatic schedule off at dormancy.
HOT-SUMMER EXAMPLE
Apply 1.5 inches with common Rain Bird or Hunter rotors
This example assumes the rain-gauge cups confirm a rate of 0.6 inch per hour. Each zone needs 150 total minutes per week, which equals five 30-minute passes. Divide those passes between two deep-watering days instead of watering a little every day.
At 0.6 inch per hour, five 30-minute passes deliver approximately 1.5 inches.
Run every zone for 30 minutes, complete the entire system, and then repeat it twice. That provides 90 minutes per zone.
After two or three days, run the complete system twice more at 30 minutes per zone. That adds the remaining 60 minutes.
The other zones create soak time between passes, helping water move deeper into the 4–6 inch root zone. If runoff begins before 30 minutes, use shorter passes and add more of them.
Large sprinkler systems: If your system has many zones, spread routine watering passes across multiple consecutive days as needed, keeping the same total watering time per zone and following local watering rules. Follow treatment-specific watering deadlines first.
EARLY-SEASON EXAMPLE
Apply 1 inch across two watering days
This example assumes common Rain Bird or Hunter rotors and a rain-gauge cup measurement of 0.6 inch per hour. Each zone needs 100 total minutes for the week, which equals five 20-minute passes. Divide those passes between two watering days so the water can soak deeper into the root zone.
At 0.6 inch per hour, five 20-minute passes deliver approximately 1 inch.
Run every zone for 20 minutes, complete the entire system, and then repeat it twice. That provides 60 minutes per zone.
After two or three days, run the complete system twice more at 20 minutes per zone. That adds the remaining 40 minutes.
While the other zones run, water can soak into the soil. Count rainfall toward the 1-inch total and reduce the scheduled time when rain supplies part of it.
Large sprinkler systems: If your system has many zones, spread routine watering passes across multiple consecutive days as needed, keeping the same total watering time per zone and following local watering rules. Follow treatment-specific watering deadlines first.
Large sprinkler systems: If your sprinkler system has a large number of zones, you may not be able to follow the suggested schedules exactly. Spread the watering passes across multiple consecutive days as needed, keeping the same total watering time per zone and following local watering rules.
CALIBRATE ONCE
Turn inches into the correct minutes for each zone
- Place a grid of cups throughout one sprinkler zone.
- Run that zone for 15 minutes. Measure the water depth in each cup in inches.
- Add the measurements together and divide by the number of cups to find the average depth.
- Multiply that average by 4. This is your sprinkler output in inches per hour.
- Enter that number in the Sprinkler output field of the watering calculator to find your watering time. Repeat the test for each zone.
Example: An average of ¼ inch (0.25) in 15 minutes × 4 = 1 inch per hour. Enter 1.0 as your sprinkler output in the calculator.
HEAVY CLAY OR SLOPES
Use full-system cycle-and-soak
Divide every zone's total runtime into 2–3 shorter passes through the complete system. On a large property, simply begin the next pass when the previous one finishes.
BERMUDA
Favor the longer interval
Established Bermuda is highly drought tolerant. Start near the lower end of the water range and allow a healthy dry-down between deep waterings.
ZOYSIA
Watch the variety and root depth
Coarser varieties may tolerate dry periods well, while fine-bladed types can root more shallowly. Adjust from the soil test and stress signals.
ST. AUGUSTINE
Inspect sunny areas first
Full-sun St. Augustine may show summer stress sooner than Bermuda. Water when the root zone is drying instead of waiting for widespread browning.
AFTER A GREEN GRASS TREATMENT
Follow the round instructions first
The instructions for the latest service override the routine schedule. Weed control may need time on the leaf, while fertilizer or pre-emergent may need to be watered into the soil.
WATER SOURCE & LOCAL RULES
Confirm what applies to the property
Rural wells and municipal systems may have different requirements. When restrictions apply, schedule the passes within permitted days and times and follow current drought rules.
KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR LAWN
Get ahead of the curve
Prepare your watering plan before the summer heat arrives. If you notice any of the signs below, it is time to adjust the watering schedule or inspect the affected sprinkler zone.
Dull blue-gray color or folded leaves
These are early drought-stress signals. Footprints that remain visible are another sign that the lawn is ready for water.
Soil that is still moist
Push a screwdriver or soil probe into the ground. If the root zone is still moist and the lawn is not stressed, wait before watering again.
One dry strip or isolated brown area
Inspect that sprinkler zone for a clogged, damaged, or misaligned head before increasing the schedule for the entire lawn.
Runoff, puddles, or constantly wet soil
Shorten each cycle and allow soak time. Persistent wetness can waste water and increase the risk of turf disease.
Green rings around rotor heads
If the grass stays green around the rotors while the surrounding lawn deteriorates, the zone is often not running long enough to water the full area adequately. Confirm the output with rain-gauge cups and increase the total runtime as needed. If the pattern appears around only one head, also check for low pressure, a clogged nozzle, a sunken head, or something blocking the stream.
NEED HELP?
If you are unsure about any of these recommendations, please contact our office and we’ll be happy to provide additional guidance.